The first Chinese settled in the city around 1911, favoring the area of the Nieuwmarkt and the Zeedijk. Many of them started restaurants and gambling dens. In the 1970s and 1980s, the neighbourhood developed such a bad reputation that postmen didn’t dare deliver the mail. Youngsters were forbidden by their parents to come to this area. There used to be a playground on the site of the He Hua Temple, which was full of heroin needles and other filth. A lot has changed, but much has also remained the same. The fun and community connection are still there. Many residents and entrepreneurs have been there for years, which creates a bond. You always say hello to each other.
In the mid-1980s, NV Zeedijk, a collaboration between the municipality and other parties, started purchasing, refurbishing, and renting out properties in the area. The Chinese neighbourhood is now frequented by both Amsterdammers and tourists. Ready to discover the neighbourhood yourself? Chan recommends the best spots.
1. He Hua Temple
2. Chinese New Year
3. Toko Dun Yong
Toko Dun Yong was one of the first Chinese companies to settle in the Netherlands in the late 1950s. "It is affectionately called the Chinese Bijenkorf. You can find everything you can think of. I go there for groceries, especially sweet Asian drinks and irresistible candies such as Cream Soda and White Rabbit.
4. Nam Kee
Don’t expect huge spring rolls or skewers of satay, but rather real Cantonese food. We want to introduce Cantonese cuisine to as many people as possible. We do not follow trends and keep our cuisine as authentic as possible. I like the Peking duck and char siu (roasted pig). Don't forget the oysters from Nam Kee.
5. Nieuwmarktplein
6. Vishandel Zeedijk
This fishmonger store is not big enough to fit a counter. That is why the fish is displayed in the shop window and on a shelf on the right side of the store. We used to live opposite here; my mother always got fried cod or mackerel here. They also have some of the best herring in town.
7. Slagerij Vet
8. Café de Kroegtijger
Chan's favourite pub is café De Kroegtijger, which opened in 2016 on the Zeedijk. It's a mix between a modern bar and a brown pub. A lot of different people come here, that's what makes it so nice. Normally, I come here about once a week.
9. Nieuwmarkt Farmer's Market
Extra: Flesseman & Fa Yin
The Asian residents who settled here years ago are getting older and want to continue living in the Chinese neighbourhood. Residential care centre Flesseman on the Nieuwmarkt makes this possible and is therefore extremely important for the neighbourhood. This also applies to the Chinese school Fa Yin. It had been in the area for years but eventually moved to a more prominent location: Reformed Lyceum West. Every Saturday, about 400 students learn the Chinese language and culture here.
Extra: Street name signs
Since 2005, the street signs in the Chinese neighbourhood have had a Chinese translation underneath. This is not only convenient for the many Chinese visitors, but is also a token of appreciation for the residents who founded the neighbourhood. Back when the area was still a criminal no-go area, many Chinese immigrants started business there and built up the neighbourhood together. Chan: "That's why my parents are extra proud of those plates."
Follow this route on your phone
Are you ready to try this route? Good news, the route can now also be followed via the Komoot app; with walking instructions, information about the highlights and a place to share your own photos with us.Chinatown!
China town is beside the bustling market square of Nieumarkt and the popular Red light district, the area consist of a number of city blocks crammed with Asia markets, restaurants and shops. Here you will see street signs in Chinese as well as Dutch.
The most important tourist sight within Chinatown is the Zeedjik Buddhist temple, known as Fo Guang Shan He Hua. This impressive building, with its brightly coloured walls and distinctive Chinese roof, is the largest Chinese style Buddhist temple in Europe and has stood here since 2000.